More Mull Meanderings

This is the magnificent Ben More group seen from the Ulva Ferry - Gruline road which we were now on. Ben More is the only island Munro (mountain over 3,000 ft) Apart from those on Skye, and I've had the pleasure of climbing it three times. You start at sea level so it's a proper climb.

Just after Gruline we passed the mausoleum of Lachlan MacQuarrie, 'father of Australia'. He was born on Ulva and the mausoleum is the property of the state of New South Wales.

Wolf Island

And so to Ulva. Duncan the ferry man took us across for free; we had a coffee at the Boathouse Café (where the home baking is also excellent) then, conscious of the time (after 2.00), and the fact that we weren't even half way, we jumped back on the wee ferry and headed back to 'mainland' Mull.

Not the Tour of Mull Rally

Tuesday was to be a long day, basically doing four of the best rally stages, visiting the island of Ulva and then cycling along the Ross of Mull to stay the night with Tony & Jean Wagstaff. For those of you who have no idea what I'm talking about, try Googling 'Mull Rally' or have a look on YouTube. I was a competitor for many years and the picture is a memorial to the founder of the event, the delightful Brian Molyneux, sadly missed.

We set a time of 44m 37s on Mishnish Lochs, between Tobermory and Dervaig, which shouldn't worry any of the drivers. Then on to 'The Long One' around Calgary Bay, from where, despite our many changes of direction, the wind seemed to be in our faces all day!

Every now and again we would stop so that I could show Richard another place where I had once crashed, which slowed progress considerably! We met three cycling ladies from Northern Ireland, stopped at the spectacular Eas Fors waterfall, and eventually reached the Ulva Ferry - summoned by sliding a board on the wall to reveal the red background. Very high-tec!

What's the Story?

On Monday night we met a group of ecologists and whale-watchers whose boat, by a strange coincidence, was being skippered by Rob, whose house we stayed in in Portree.

Tobermory was as welcoming as ever, with its painted buildings (and the world's best fish and chip van). We stayed in a great B&B called Fuaran on Raeric Road.

Mission accomplished!

Today we set foot (and bike) on our last island - Oronsay, which lies to the south of Colonsay, reached only at low tide by pedalling (or walking or driving) through wet sand for about a mile. It is VERY hard work on a bike, and you thought we were doing this for fun!

Before I tell you more, I realise I've been unable to blog for the last couple of days so I'll try to bring you up to date, starting with this photo taken just outside Salen, on the Isle of Mull, on Monday.

The weather has been so kind for a few days now. The suncream is getting a hammering and now even the wind has dropped - though it was breezy on Monday and Tuesday. Cycling heaven!

Apologies to all readers

I'm sorry for the lack of blogs over the last two days but I've either been short of signal/wifi or out of time!

Tomorrow and Friday will be our last two islands - Colonsay and Oronsay - and signals may well be difficult again. So please bear with me - I WILL bring you up to date as soon as I can.

PS Thanks to the anonymous donor for the large donation to Cancer Research UK on Just Giving today, and to the many people en route who have given a total of £330 as we have passed by!

Brief Re-Encounter!

We decided to go to the MacDonald Arms for something to eat as I wanted to see the landlady, Susan, to let her know my parents are OK. No seats in the main bar, went into the back room and who should be there, with a team of ecologists/whale-watchers, but Rob, whose house we stayed in on Skye (and whose arrival late that evening might have turned into a diplomatic incident!)

Furthermore Theresa, one of the ecologists, comes from Clitheroe. So a good evening was had by all.

It was great to see Susan too, after she'd finished feeding the 5,000, and Neil. Then we met an interesting guy from Miami and Washington DC who seems to spend his life backpacking around the world and working as a consultant at the same time. I didn't catch his name though - so please fella - if you read this, send me an email with your details.

Enough for today. Around the rugged west coast tomorrow - if the weather keeps up it should be superb.

KPO, KPO.

Scorchio!

As the temperature rose (I can't believe in writing this but it's true!) we pedalled through Salen and on to the single-track A-road which leads to Tobermory. This must be the busiest such road in Britain - how it can remain single-track with so much traffic defeats me.

Just outside Salen are these two old boats (photo) which are always photogenic.

The views along the Sound of Mull are fantastic, better still when the sea is so blue. Soon we arrived in Tobermory, looking as splendid as ever with its brightly coloured houses along the sea front. I called at Alison's shop on the corner near the Mishnish, hoping for a hug and a kiss, only to be met by husband Pete. Nice to see you again Pete (but a kiss from Alison would've been better!)

Then up the steep hill to our excellent B&B for tonight, Fuaran House on Raeric Road, run by Brian & Lynne McLeod.

Mull Murmurings (with apologies to Jaggy Bunnet!)

As soon as we left the ferry in Craignure we headed for Duart Castle, perched in its superb location and home of Lord McLean. The views from the castle were superb, looking up Loch Linnhe to a snow-covered Ben Nevis.

After the obligatory coffee and scone we headed out to Grasspoint, where there was once a ferry and cattle drovers actually swam their animals to the mainland. Two magnificent Sea Eagles were sitting on a rock opposite- a long way off - luckily a family who were birdwatching let us view them through their telescope.

Back to Craignure for a sandwich then off towards Tobermory. We stopped for a while near Pennygown to see of any porpoises would turn up but to no avail. A couple of small aircraft landed at the grass strip airport at Glenforsa, uncomfortably close together, I thought.

Earlier This Morning...

...this was the view towards the Isle of Mull from just outside Oban. There is a cycle path from Dunbeg right into the heart of Oban.

The Mull ferry was packed - with Americans, Germans, French, Italians - and even a few Brits!

This island is almost like a second home. I'll tell you what we did later, after we've been down into Tob for something to eat. I'm starving!

Mull Here We Come!

Tomorrow morning we take the ferry from Oban to Craignure on Mull for three days on the island I'm most familiar with, having visited annually for the last 40 years. I used to compete on the Tour of Mull Rally every October, if you're wondering!

On this occasion the pace will be a little slower. Duart Castle, Salen and an evening in Tobermory tomorrow. Dervaig, Calgary Bay, Ulva, Loch na Keal and Loch Scridain Tues; Iona and Erraid Wednesday, then the ferry back to Oban.

Will we see Otters, Sea Eagles and Golden Eagles?

I'll let you know...

The Photo I would have paid good money not to show...

Tonight we are being hosted once again by Dave & June Bleazard near Oban, and have been given free use of the washing machine - not a moment too soon for me! Richard sneaked this photo which I'd rather my missus doesn't see!!

The Falls of Lora

The tide race below the bridge at Connel can be very impressive, with strong currents and big standing waves. A few intrepid kayakers were enjoying themselves there this afternoon.

The Bridge at Connel

By the way, Oban was a bit of a shock - more people and buildings than we've seen for some time!

Many of you will have seen the bridge at Connel - this is what it's like when you travel over it, although I can't guarantee that you'll meet this type of vehicle every time...

Oban

A familiar sight to many of you I presume...